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Doha's Breathtaking Skyline of Dazzling Skyscrapers Belies an Ancient Culture, Discovers Anji Connell

Doha is a city of contrasts that straddles East and West, past and present, with an exotic mix of old and cutting edge architecture from some of the world's foremost architects

Doha is the capital city of Qatar, a finger-shaped peninsula jutting into the Arabian Gulf made up of arid desert with a long shoreline of beaches and dunes that is a paradise for adventure and adrenaline seekers alike. It’s a vibrant and eclectic cultural mosaic with a dynamic art scene, world-renowned museums, iconic art galleries, and diverse cuisines. No longer just a mere stopover on a long haul flight, Doha positively delights with aesthetic pleasures; its genuine cultural perspective has been inspired by ancient Islamic design and culture.

The Architecture

Traditional Qatari architecture may have lost its way somewhat after the oil boom and the arrival of many foreign architects constructing their shiny high rise that so obviously turned away from traditional Qatari buildings. However, Qatar is now witnessing the birth of a distinguished and unique Arab architecture focusing on preserving its identity, with sustainability at its core. Great examples of this are the new Msheireb Downtown Doha sustainable regeneration project that blends contemporary architecture and functionality with a local aesthetic. Pritzker Prize-winning architect IM Pei's Museum of Islamic Art [MIA] that rises from the sea on a stand-alone island in Doha Bay has one of the world’s leading Islamic art collections in galleries encircling a soaring, five-story-high domed atrium. Traditional Islamic patterns (domes, geometric patterns, arches, water features) meld with modern architecture in this hallmark museum. It is one of the city's most prominent monuments and one of the symbolic icons of the neo-vernacular Qatari. Richard Serra's '7' sculpture consists of seven 78 feet high steel plates arranged in a heptagonal or seven-sided shape that celebrates the spiritual-scientific significance of the number 7 in Islamic culture facing the MIA. 

Jean Nouvel's National Museum of Qatar [NMoQ] is a staggeringly complex arrangement made up of over 500 petals. A 21st- century museum that allows you to experience the exhibits in three dimensions, it tells the story of the country's history and its ambitions for the future. Not so very long ago Doha was an old fishing and pearl-diving settlement that is now a gleaming vision of the future. Meanwhile, [NMoQ] is the brainchild of the Emir's sister, Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, the founder and chairperson of Qatar Museums, the umbrella organization responsible for the city's art and culture. Al-Mayassa is a powerhouse in the art world. Her mission is for Qatar to become 'the art Mecca of the Middle East.'

It's no secret Qatar is hosting the FIFA 2022 World Cup, which promises to be one of the most lavish. The gas-rich emirate has spent more than $200bn (£160bn) in readiness for the tournament. The seven new stadiums and the revamped Khalifa International Stadium designed by the likes of the late Zaha Hadid, and multidisciplinary studio Dar Al-Handasah, and Ibrahim Mohamed Jaidah will nod to Qatari culture and add to the existing and dynamic and eclectic architecture. Designed to look like the Lusail Stadium by Foster + Partners, it is certainly the most important venue of all as far as the FIFA World Cup 2022 is concerned.

The Art

All art forms coexist in Doha, contributing to a vibrant cultural landscape. Qatar has an impressive lineup of immersive, informal, and interactive public art installations by leading international artists. Over a hundred works have turned the local urban landscape into "a vast outdoor art museum experience." Amazingly, street art has grown into an exciting alternative movement of artistic expression.

Must-Visit Galleries

-Al Riwaq is one of the premier contemporary art spaces in Doha. Currently on show is Jeff Koons: Lost in America, featuring sixty artworks from over four decades offering Koon's distinct outlook on American culture.

-Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art has the largest collection of Arab modern and contemporary art in the World.

-The Firestation is one of Doha's main art hubs. The Garage Gallery is currently showing Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech, a retrospective of the acclaimed American artist and designer who sadly lost his battle with cancer recently.

-The new M7 fashion innovation hub, gallery, exhibition space, café, and Qatar's first concept store, Studio 7, curated by Asma Derouiche, celebrates craftsmanship from within the diverse Arab World. M7's inaugural and current exhibition, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams.

Art News

The Culture Pass Club - Qatar's first members-only art club has recently opened, with 14 individually designed townhouses by Diane von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren, India Mahdavi, Daniel Arsham, Armani/Casa, and The Future Perfect young Qataris Wadha and Aisha Al Sowaidi. The inaugural Design Miami will take place this Spring.

The Desert

No trip to Qatar is complete without a visit to the desert. For the "Ultimate Road Trip," head to Zakreet, in the Ras ABrouq nature reserve, an hour's 4x4 drive from the city. This barren desert landscape has blinding white sand and astonishing limestone rock formations, with jutting overhangs carved by the winds carrying desert sand over time. And, Richard Serra's incredible desert installation "East- West/ West-East is just astonishing. Four 14 metre steel plates are spread over 1 kilometre in perfect alignment. Continue, and you will arrive at the Inland Sea, where the turquoise blue water of the Persian Gulf meets the golden hues of the dunes. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful and surreal sight.

Khalifa International Stadium

The Dar Al-Handasah designed stadium was renovated and redeveloped in the lead to the FIFA World Cup 2022. It was updated with a new tier of seating, adding 12,000 seats, as well as a new facade.

Camel Racing

En route to Zakreet, you can stop off at the Al-Shahaniya camel racing track, where you will see some of the best groomed and most expensive camels on the planet. Some are worth as much as one million Qatari riyals [2.5 million pounds sterling].

The Corniche

The crescent-shaped water promenade has a 7-kilometre-long boardwalk with spectacular views of the Gulf on one side and Doha's glistening skyline on the other. The water is a fabulous place to sightsee on a leisurely dhow ride, ideally taken at sunset.

Souq Waqif

Spend a day strolling through the spice-scented streets perusing the vibrant market where you can buy almost everything from traditional handicrafts to camels. Then soak up the atmosphere at one of the many Arabian cafés, restaurants, and shisha lounges, sampling delicious local favourites.

The Food Scene

Doha's dining scene is an homage to indulgence. The usual suspects of international heavyweights are all here. Alain Ducasse, Wolfgang Puck, Morimoto Doha, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Guy Savoy, Gordon Ramsay, and Vineet Bhatia. The world's largest Nobu sits perched above the Arabian Gulf, spanning three circular levels that resembles a coiled shell in tribute to the region's famed pearl-diving history, and an utterly fabulous rooftop bar overlooking incredible views of Dohas West Bay.

Park Cafe in Mia Park has a spectacular and utterly captivating view of West Bay. Located at the top floor of the iconic Museum of Islamic Art, IDAM's exquisite design created by Phillipe Starck is a dynamic fusion of modernity with classicism and Arabian touches.

The Sleep

Famed Dutch designer Marcel Wanders Mondrian Doha is a veritable feast for the eyes, an exercise in fabulism and whimsical opulence juxtaposed with traditional Middle Eastern motifs and icons.

Mandarin Oriental Doha

In complete contrast, the pristine David Collins Studio - designed Mandarin Oriental Doha highlights Qatari heritage with sophisticated design. One of the best rooftop spots in the city for sunsets. And for the lucky few - The Culture Pass Club members will have priority access to the residences when in town for the World Cup next year.

Words: Anji Connell
Published on February 25, 2022