Step into a storybook realm where history embraces wonderland with Anji Connell

Cowley Manor Experimental reimagines the country house hotel experience with a contemporary twist. Renowned designer Dorothée Meilichzon has crafted a stylish and refined vision for this Gloucestershire hotel, collaborating with the creative Experimental Group to bring it to life. 

Cowley Manor, a stunning example of Italianate architecture, has been a manor house at the heart of England’s history for more than 300 years, with the first iteration constructed in 1695, on land once owned by Edward the Confessor. It is also widely recognised as the inspiration for Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland. 

Established in 1855, Cowley Manor showcases a delightful Italianate flair. Its enchanting grounds tumble gracefully down to a serene lake, where swans glide among lily pads. This haven of serenity has long inspired artists and authors alike; these include Charles Lutwidge Dodgson better known as Lewis Carroll, a regular visitor to Cowley while staying with friends at what is now the Old Rectory, who, it is said, one memorable day, while strolling through the grounds with the lovely Alice Liddell - the niece of the local vicar - stumbled upon a white rabbit darting into a mysterious hole beneath a hedge - from that serendipitous moment, the whimsical tale of ‘Alice's Adventures in Wonderland’ sprang to life, forever linking Cowley Manor to the enchanting world of imagination. 

Taking inspiration from the manor itself and honoring its classical roots, and storied past Meilichzon has crafted a design that celebrates the building's eclectic history, infusing whimsical touches and a quirky charm into her elegant and refined modern reinterpretation, introducing a distinct, design-forward aesthetic that sets it apart from typical country house hotels. Throughout the hotel, Meilichzon masterfully contrasts the deep, rich tones of the manor's original wood panelled interiors with a rich colour palette and bold and stylishly bright lacquered furniture, animated by chequered board rugs, geometric fabrics in a riot of textures  and warm hues, in a playful interplay of design elements, and playful winks to Alice, creating an  environment that's not only confident and invigorating but also envelops you in a sense of deep  comfort. 

The result is a captivating blend of classical inspiration and contemporary interventions, embodying what the masterminds behind the Experimental Cocktail Club called a ‘Joyeux Bordel’ - literally meaning 'happy brothel', but used in France to mean 'happy mess', merry mess, or a joyful chaos. At Cowley, Experimental have done what they do best — creating unpretentious gathering places for guests to have fun, dance and, above all, enjoy cocktails, wine, and food.

First Impressions: 

The entrance hall is a stunning blend of history and modernity, showcasing the manor's original dark wood panelling alongside an eye-catching reception desk crafted from luxurious, lacquered burr walnut. Complete with an elegantly curved top made of dazzling white, enamelled lava stone, that vibrantly ushers the space into the 21st century. And, forget those dull plastic key cards; here, guests are greeted with a delightful touch of whimsy, via a pastel leather tassel with a clever wooden disc that whisks you into your room. 

The Experimental Cocktail Club Cotswolds: 

The bar offers signature apéritifs, fine wines, and spirits - perfect for pre-dinner drinks, spontaneous gatherings, or starting a night of adventure. The bar has a sleek, downtown Manhattan vibe, featuring lacquered wood and marble tables, accented with seating in fabrics from Nobilis and Élitis, and an Arte wall covering. Artworks in the lounge bar are complemented by Chazon-designed lava-stone tables, with sofas and pouffes in eye-catching Pierre Frey and Rubelli fabrics, supplanting the traditional hotel aesthetic of chintz or characterless blandness. Nothing is superfluous to requirements. It is sleek, chic, and functional. 

Meilichzon has ditched the traditional country house hotel format, where the seating arrangement often evokes a sense of nostalgia and formality with clusters of plush, oversized  armchairs and annoying, lines of cushions, and delicate side tables nestled in intimate corners  of the lounge that encourage quiet conversations and discreet exchanges, fostering an  atmosphere of hushed elegance where guests may feel inclined to maintain a certain decorum. 

In contrast, Cowley Manor boldly redefines this concept with its dynamic and inviting seating layout. Instead of segregated chairs, the lounge features a lively grid of contemporary sofas that invite social interaction and engagement. The inclusion of bright blue stools and bold geometric patterns breaks away from the muted tones, adding a playful, vibrant atmosphere that seamlessly blends sophistication and youthful energy. Enjoy deejay sets every Friday and Saturday for a pre-dinner groove or a post-dinner chill. 

The Restaurant: 

The restaurant is a gorgeous, luminous space that opens onto a large terrace overlooking the lush gardens and the tranquil lake. Its beautifully panelled walls are a fabulous backdrop to the 1970s-influenced, super-shiny, rounded tables, and Egon Eiermann chairs. The wrought-iron chairs and banquettes, all designed by Meilichzon's agency Chzon, are upholstered in plush geometric fabrics from Tibor and Zoffany. Stunning in their simplicity, the low-hanging tasselled lamps and uplighters on the panelled walls provide a gentle light. Dining here is a treat. 

The Menus: 

With celebrated chef Jackson Boxer as the consultant chef you can rest assured the food will be deliciously moreish. Boxer has crafted a menu that reflects the local area, with a nod to French cuisine. Local produce will be at the forefront, highlighting some of Gloucestershire’s finest offerings Think Gloucestershire Old Spot croquettes and Stinking Bishop gougères, and oysters to start. The roasted cod with fennel butter and smoked tomatoes is a highlight. A Côte de Boeuf to share. Unpretentious, yet memorable! 

The Garden Room: 

The garden room on the ground floor overlooking St Mary's churchyard has the light and feel of a conservatory, with a wallpaper of climbing flowers, rattan chairs and green metal tables. The Osborne & Little wallpaper echoes the view from the garden room, and a sofa in a Le Manach print and cane furniture are set off by a chequered jute rug. 

The Games Room: 

Woodwork in Farrow & Ball's 'Inchyra Blue' frames a Cole & Son wallpaper of stylised walking sticks, with cane chairs from Rowen & Wren, and a hemp dhurrie by 8 Holland Street, and a pool table, a dartboard and tables for draughts or chess, garden and lake views, and direct access to the terrace and garden. 

The Library: 

Invites you to sit and read in an armchair upholstered in an Élitis fabric, with of course views to the lake and garden, and terrace access. 

The Study: 

Former owner Mr Horlick's desk sits at the heart of the room, where he wrote his infamous recipes, and beyond the windows, enjoy views of the lake and garden and direct access onto the terrace. 

The Bedrooms and Suites: 

The hotel's 36 rooms and suites encompass the manor house, the stable block, and a sleek modern extension designed by De Matos Ryan. This space was once the Grand Ballroom. Bedrooms – and especially the bathrooms – are spacious. The double basins in enamelled lava stone (green or plum red) are a glossy and colourful respite from the usual hotel white or marble. In the bedrooms, some of which have four-poster beds, Meilichzon has adapted the oak lined wardrobes of the hotel in its previous incarnation. 'I hate waste, though it would have been cheaper to throw them away and install new ones,' she says, explaining she has set them on legs, added a charming sloping roof and clad the doors in a fabric with – inevitably – a chequered design. Each bedroom door features a brass knocker shaped like a rabbit's head, and numerous ceramic rabbits and mushrooms adorn the rooms. Expect to wake up to birdsong from woodpeckers, kinglets and kingfishers. Our room overlooked the garden and the lake was so quiet. I don’t think I have ever experienced such a quiet hotel room ever—just bliss! And our bathroom—heavenly! 

Bathrooms: 

Meilichzon creates stunning bathrooms that genuinely stand out. Her designs blend elegance with functionality, transforming these spaces into tranquil retreats. By combining unique materials, bold colours, and playful patterns, she elevates the bathroom experience, making each one feel like a luxurious sanctuary. Whether it's through beautiful fixtures or thoughtfully curated details, her approach ensures that each bathroom is not only stylish but also a delightful escape. I'm still reminiscing fondly over my pink bathroom at The Henrietta Experimental in Covent Garden. 

C-Side Spa: 

Conceived as a true sanctuary of well-being, the C-side Spa combines elegant design with lush natural surroundings. The spa offers a sense of calm through Cotswold stone, lacquered wood tables and a pale Élitis fabric, and large picture windows. There are two pools. A 17-metre indoor pool lined with slate invites you to relax all year round, and feels like you are swimming through a forest of trees, while a 15-metre outdoor pool lets you enjoy the benefits of water in the middle of nature. There are sun loungers galore and a pool bar with cocktail nights during the summer months. C-Side Spa also offers four treatment rooms that have the M touch, a hammam, a sauna, a super sleek gym, rain showers and a relaxation area. There’s also a programme of fitness classes - pilates, yoga, HIIT workouts, aqua Aerobics, and outdoor bootcamp. 

Outdoor Cinema: 

An open-air cinema returns for the summer season set on the top lawn, set on the top lawn, under the stars. 

The Italianate Garden: 

The 19th-century Italianate gardens are planted with ginkgo biloba, grand sequoias, and Atlas cedar, and cypresses enveloped by meadows and pastures that extend over 55 idyllic acres, while Alpacas graze on pastures in the surrounding fields. Natural springs feed a truly impressive Grade II listed 19th-century water staircase designed by James Hutchinson, featuring stone sculptures of eagles and lions. The water flows from the springs into upper and middle lakes, eventually joining the River Churn. 

Do not miss out on the head gardener David Masters garden walks through the grounds. Refined white parasols protect white deck chairs lining the top of the garden overlooking the lake, while picnic tents are dotted about the meadow beyond the lake in readiness for delicious Mad Hatter tea parties. Plus the hotel has its own vegetable and herb gardens and beehives. It's idyllic!  A stay at Cowley Manor encourages you to sit back, relax, and enjoy yourself, quite the contrary to Carroll's poor White Rabbit, who is left in a perpetual state of hurry. 

Cowley Manor Experimental
Cowley, Cheltenham GL53 9NL 
COTSWOLDS 
Design: Dorothée Meilichzon